Both cultured and natural pearls are produced by the oyster or mollusc. Imitation pearls have never seen the inside of an oyster. They are entirely artificial, made from round glass or plastic beads dipped in a bath of ground fish scales and lacquer, or one of the new plastic substances. The difference between real and simulated pearls can usually be seen when the two are compared side by side. One of the most obvious differences is in the luster. Give it the luster test; the real pearl will have a depth of luster that the fake cannot duplicate. The fake usually has a surface "shine" but no inner "glow." Look in the shaded area; in the real Pearl Jewelry you see a clearly defined reflection; in the fake pearl you will not.
Use the tooth test to separate the fake
There are some fine imitations today that can be very convincing. Some have actually been mistaken for fine cultured pearls. An easy, reliable test in most cases is the "tooth test." Rub the pearl gently along the edge of your teeth (upper teeth are more sensitive, and also be aware that the test won't work with false teeth). The genuine pearl will have a mildly abrasive or gritty feel (think of sand at the seaside; real pearls come from the sea), while the imitation will be slippery smooth (like the con artist, slippery smooth signifies a fake!). try this test on pearls you are genuine, and then on known imitations to get a feel for the difference. You'll never forget it!
There is not currently a universal pearl grading system, although two widely used pearl standards are known The first it the Tahitian System.
The A-D System (or Tahitian System) This system grades pearls on a scale from A to D, with A being the highest grade. This is the system used in French Polynesia (based on a government standard there) to grade Tahitian pearls, and South Sea pearls only. It is therefore sometimes referred to as the "Tahitian system." While this system is standard in producing countries, other markets will still utilize AAA-A.
* A: The highest-quality pearl, with very high luster and only minor imperfections over less than 10% of its surface.
* B: High or medium luster. Surface may have some visible imperfections, but over no more than 30% of its area.MORE:white pearl necklace
Use the tooth test to separate the fake
There are some fine imitations today that can be very convincing. Some have actually been mistaken for fine cultured pearls. An easy, reliable test in most cases is the "tooth test." Rub the pearl gently along the edge of your teeth (upper teeth are more sensitive, and also be aware that the test won't work with false teeth). The genuine pearl will have a mildly abrasive or gritty feel (think of sand at the seaside; real pearls come from the sea), while the imitation will be slippery smooth (like the con artist, slippery smooth signifies a fake!). try this test on pearls you are genuine, and then on known imitations to get a feel for the difference. You'll never forget it!
There is not currently a universal pearl grading system, although two widely used pearl standards are known The first it the Tahitian System.
The A-D System (or Tahitian System) This system grades pearls on a scale from A to D, with A being the highest grade. This is the system used in French Polynesia (based on a government standard there) to grade Tahitian pearls, and South Sea pearls only. It is therefore sometimes referred to as the "Tahitian system." While this system is standard in producing countries, other markets will still utilize AAA-A.
* A: The highest-quality pearl, with very high luster and only minor imperfections over less than 10% of its surface.
* B: High or medium luster. Surface may have some visible imperfections, but over no more than 30% of its area.MORE:white pearl necklace
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